They’re going to “overpay” you, then ask you to send them the money back (or sometimes but something for them). But eventually their check bounces, while you’re out whatever money/items you sent them.
You also need to start being more careful, because the scammers sell and trade lists of people who have fallen victim, or almost fallen victim, to their scam. Because if you’ve (almost) fallen for one scam, you’re more likely to fall for a second one.
Back in the 80s, my uncle paid some company to convert the 8mm to VHS; they overlaid some music over the video, I didn’t remember what. I borrowed the tape sometime around 2002 and converted it to DVD.
Around the same time, my mom had a bunch of reel-to-reel and audio cassette recordings she asked me to convert to CD, which I did. One of the audio tapes was from a family reunion in the mid-70s, where they’d played the same home movies and everyone was discussing them. So I converted the tape and then synced the audio to the video; you can play either one the music or commentary track.
There’s one thing I meant to do back then that I didn’t have the energy to deal with, which was to provide a transcription of the audio, so people would know who’s voice was who’s. Voice-to-text should make that fairly easy now. I think there’s too much over-talking to do a decent set of labeled subtitles, but I might be able to swing something.
Re: your VHS results: if it’s not at the front of the tape when you start working on it, then fast-forward it to the end and then let it rewind; that’ll give you a better tension on the tape. Depending on the tape, it’s quality and it’s condition, how it was stored (temperature/humidity and whether it was on it’s end or on it’s side), and when they thought it had been played last, I might try fast-forwarding and rewinding it anyway, as doing that would reset the tension and make sure that the tape wasn’t sticking to itself when I was playing it and reducing the risk of the tape getting eaten. The trade-off was that doing that could pull some of the magnetized bits off the tape, increasing drop-outs. Whenever I started playing a tape, I was always recording the output, regardless of whether the video had started or the tracking was off, just in case the tape got eaten.
If your tape does get eaten, you can try to iron out some of the wrinkles to get it to play through that section; or just rotate the spindles past the wrinkled bit and resume converting. If a tape gets eaten, I’d clean the heads on your vcr, just in case any debris got in there, and I’d clean it after any particularly dirty tapes (stored poorly, or lots of drop-outs) as well. (If it’s a vcr from a thrift store or something, I’d clean it anyway, and make sure the that the first tapes I played were commercial tapes I didn’t care about in case there were issues with it.)
If the spindles on the tape get jammed, you can unshell the tape and spindles and re-shell them into a new case - I have some old VHS movies I keep on hand for just these situations.
If you’re using a standalone DVD recorder, given the option, use the RCA connections instead of coax for a better picture. If you’re getting unstable brightness or color, try hooking up your cables to the front input instead of the rear inputs; sometimes those recorders pick up DRM-style signals on old tapes and interferes with the recording, except they assumed the front inputs would be used for camcorders and often put less DRM detection on those ports. If you still get unstable brightness or color and think that’s wrong, see if you can find something called a video stabilizer or signal enhancer - that’s what the copyright busters used to be called, and they also helped sharpen the image a bit too.
If you’re having issues with tracking, there are vcrs that let you do manual tracking adjustments, and you might want to see if you can find one. Many of my old Sony vcrs had that ability, and I really liked that. My old Sony vcrs also had the ability to move back and forward frame by frame, which was also nice: I could start the tape, get the tracking nice and settled, then back up to the first frame of the recording and start converting from there, thus avoiding the whole “tracking” notice on the screen without missing any of the recording.
I dunno, I’m kinda babbling, sorry. Are there specific issues you were having with your tapes, or just “this was a cheap tape recorded over multiple times, the recording I want to save was made at EP, it was stored on its side on a hot and humid environment and I’m lucky I managed to get anything off it”?
I’ve inherited a lot of photos, and also a bunch of negatives. I’ve gone and thrown out many vacation photos that weren’t relevant or unique: if I need a photo of the pyramids, I’m fairly confident I can find one, lol. But I kept the one of my mom in front of the pyramids.
I’m in the process of scanning and organizing everything. Once I’m done, I’m planning on putting together five photo albums, all nicely labeled and organized. The first one’s for me, of the people I loved or events I found special. Then one of each of the other albums for my nieces and nephews. There may be a handful of photos I copy and put in each album, but most of the pictures will be unique.
Also enclosed in the albums will be a family tree, and whatever biographical bits of information I can put together of our various relatives. And a DVD with digital copies of all the photos and negatives I scanned in, so everyone will have access to a full set of photos, as well as a subset of the originals. I also have some digitized 8mm home movies from the 1940s and 50s, with my grandparents in the 1970s narrating who the various people are, so I’ll probably include a copy of that.
Honestly, I’m not sure how my nieces and nephews will feel about the albums, but it’s the best connection I can give them to some of their roots and where their people came from. What they do with their albums afterward is up to them; I’ll have honored the people in my past and provided what I can to the people in my future.
Iirc, most classes were prohibited from selling for two years after it debuted, giving the protected classes plenty of time to fleece the sheep.
If the only penalty is a fine …
Congress funded the councils at normal levels for fiscal 2026, but the administration has disbursed less than half and told them not to expect the rest. The Federation of State Humanities Councils has asked a federal judge in Oregon to rule that Trump is violating separation-of-powers rules.
He does shit and it takes time to get the court ruling, by which time the damage is done.
What is someone doing with expired plates?
Decorate the inside of their barn with them!
Rehires them to better train their AI. They’ll be back out again shortly. :/
I’ve had a farm share for a number of years, and have eaten a number of different types of potatoes, including two different blue ones.
See, what I see is that Ford intends to keep using AI, they’re just temporarily using experienced humans to train the AI to be better at it’s job before getting rid of the humans again.
Sigh. That under Swedish law, it’s entirely probable that Julian Assange did rape that woman (reddit fanbois are a special kind of special).
That Elon Musk is not a real-life Tony Stark, but is in fact a slightly autistic narcissist who insists on inserting himself into the public eye and has an excellent PR team (reddit fanbois are a special kind of special).
That covid is real, and is bad, and is in fact deadly; and that vaccines are good, not a government conspiracy, and may save not just your life, but the lives of your families and friends.
Probably one of those three.
This is less “Today I Learned”, and more “News”.
The trades have somewhat more risk of injury than, say, sitting at a computer all day, particularly if you’re working as hard as your schedule implies. Does your job, union or state have disability insurance, or the option for it? If not, can you purchase it from an instance broker ? If so, get disability coverage; and if there are multiple levels, get the one with the highest coverage.
Now, double-check all of the following with an independent insurance broker, as the rules may have changed since I did this, or your local area may be different than mine.
In my area, this is key: pay for your disability benefits POST-TAX. You’ll generally have the option to pay pre-tax (your income is reduced by the account of the insurance payment, then you pay tax on what you take home) or post-tax (your income including the insurance payment is taxed, then they deduct the insurance payment).
The reason this matters: if you haven’t paid tax on the premiums and you end up getting disabled, then those benefits will be taxed; but if you’ve paid tax on the premiums, then your benefits are tax-free. If you pay pre-tax, then you’ll have a little extra money each paycheck; but if you become disabled, then you’ll lose a bunch of your disability payments to taxes during a stressful period with extra expenses. If you pay post-tax, then you take home a little less money each week (not a concern in your situation); but if you become disabled, then you don’t lose any of your disability pay to taxes.
I’ll also add: for your car insurance, it’s entirely up to you what coverage you get for collision and comprehensive, but always opt for the maximum amount of personal injury protection you can get. And if you’re going to be stacking up your assets like you hope to do, please consider an umbrella policy to help protect those assets.
Good luck!
I “solved” this problem by losing my original OralB (non-IO) and being forced to replace it with an OralB IO, then finding my original OralB. I keep one in the upstairs bathroom and one in the downstairs, and now I can use either type, lol!
Even with gifted articles, the NYT refuses to accept that I’m not a bot (possibly because of my aggressive ad and JS blocking). I appreciate alternatives.
Honestly, fingers and movement have been two of the telling signs of AI photos and video for a long time. Just like they’ve used captchas to crowd-source house numbers for their maps, and vehicle information and street infrastructure for their attempts at self-driving vehicles, they’re now crowd-sourcing data for AI images and video.
Plus they’ll get geo-information on your location, and video of your immediate area - like the inside of your house. They’ve had code that processes images and gives feedback on the people in the photo, their likely income and interests, and suggests ads targeted to those people. With geo-location, fingerprinting your phone, and now pictures of the inside of your house, they’re really dialing in on their surveillance and ad databases.
Not saying that the opportunity to build facial ID banks isn’t a bonus. But don’t discount the opportunity to spy inside everyone’s homes, and to improve their ability to literally generate their own version of reality - or to produce “evidence” disproving your reality to everyone else.
A lot of sidewalks in major cities don’t have room for these. Especially if you account for traffic, light, and power poles, street signs, bus and trolley stops, subway and El entrances, sidewalk trees, garbage, trash and recycling bins, sidewalk grates, cellar entries, cracked sidewalks, etc, etc, etc. And suddenly you’re being asked to give up one piece of space that’s supposedly reserved for you, to yet another ‘move fast, break things, get permission later’ techbro “innovation” that no one’s asked for.
There’s no regulation over them, no standards that they have to follow or how to behave, no way for the public to specifically identify a robot when they encounter it in public (like, say, your robot ran into my car or whatever).
I’d only allow them if each robot carried a certain amount of insurance, was registered and had some kind of license plate, had turn signals (I don’t know if they do, the ones I saw didn’t), had limited operating hours and locations, were forced to move aside for humans, etc - basically make them the absolute lowest priority thing on the streets and sidewalks. Streets, bike lanes, sidewalks, subways, etc, were each built for specific forms of human movement. If techbros want to introduce a new type of system, they should be forced to build their own infrastructure to support it (no idea what that looks like for delivery robots), instead of just blatantly overloading already-stressed public infrastructure.
From the number of teens riding ATVs, scooters and quad bikes on my area, I’m pretty sure they don’t need any encouragement.
The Superman fan wiki says
Pink Kryptonite is a type of Kryptonite that seemingly turns Kryptonians more feminine or queer. This type of Kryptonite only made one appearance in comics and was used as a satire of the plots of Silver Age comic stories featuring some strange new form of Kryptonite.
In an animated short, True Colors, from the animated series Justice League Action, its effect was changed to switch the gender of the Kryptonian under its effects, due to the more family-friendly nature of the show.
So, boo :(
We can do better!