doc

There should be a word.

My father-in-law was not feeling well recently so we took him to the doctor. He presented with very high blood pressure and we were all asking him what happened to the blood pressure medicine he was taking for a decade. He replied, “I stopped taking it because last time they checked my blood pressure it was fine.”

This absolutely needs a word.

A programmable PD barrel adapter isn’t exactly new.

Here’s one with all the barrel adapters included and doesn’t need an app.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FGV7SDCB

I’ve had success laying my bike on it’s side so the sensor can pick it up.

Ronald Jenkees

What a time to be alive.

Unscented wool detergent is something of a unicorn i the western hemisphere, sadly.

If you can stand the smell, Perwoll is probably your best bet up north. I’ve never smelled it, but there is no unscented option. There’s Black, Colour, and White, depending on your wardrobe.

Here’s Black: https://www.reliableparts.ca/product/PERWOLLBLACK-Perwoll-Black-1-375ml-25-Wash-Loads/Persil-Detergents

Surfactants and enzymes are different things that perform different but complementary jobs in your laundry. Think of enzymes as chemical scissors that can only cut very specific things. They’re very much like puzzle pieces, with lipase only cleving triglycerides (dietary fats) and not mineral oils, for example. Mix a variety together and they break down certain stubborn, sticky chemicals into smaller parts. That helps release them from fibers and makes it easier for surfactants to grab them to be washed away. Surfactants are chemicals that cling to soils so they can be suspended in water and rinsed down the drain.

Wool is hair, so think of it like your shampoo. Shampoos are usually made to be pH neutral because we know high pH makes hair dry and tangle horribly. However, most everything in the wash has no problem with high pH, and surfactants work better with high pH, thus we generally do laundry at high pH’s around 10 or so. Higher if you add bleach (please don’t), oxygen bleach (“oxy” aka hydrogen peroxide), or even ammonia.

Since you’re in Canada look for Eucalan or Miele WoolCare.

Where you at? Continent is close enough.

Wool clothing really does need a special detergent. Surficants are one part, of course, but the pH shouldn’t get too high, and a lot of detergents tend to have high pH since that helps clean. The high pH is not good for the wool and will make the scales on the hairs open and become brittle, which is the opposite of what you want.

You also want to avoid the enzyme protase/substilin. They both are effective against proteins, which is great for a lot of soils, but bad for hair, which is made out of protein. Other enzymes like lipase, cellulase, amylase, and mannanase are all perfectly fine and won’t damage the fibers.

It’s just next to impossible to find a detergent with enzymes but without protase. There are a couple manufacturers in Europe, but none in the US. There is one US company reselling an EU detergent (The Steamery) but it’s pricy and is scented.

Not direcrly, but they get their name in his head and thats all they want.

Why three when one will do?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0U2zJOryHKQ

Does the fedia federation list provide you the data you need in order to include them?

https://fedia.io/federation

Name another Chumbawamba song, you can’t without googling.

Amnesia.

But point taken.

This is largely an out of proportion concern. As long as you’re like most people and park your car at home overnight for 8+ hours a standard extension cord and outlet is sufficient. If you need rapid charging then your life follows an irregular schedule or you got the absolute largest battery for the largest SUV/truck available.

I’m referring to the shared frame of mind the local council has with a stereotypical HOA board. ;)

I must have missed that part, thanks.

Sounds like some overzealous HOA board member got elected and is treating public spaces like their backyard.

I’d be raising hell with the local government about their asinine waste of public funds.

I’d also register as Mickey Mouse and other false info.

Is there a guard present? Who is going to enforce lack of reservation when there are other courts clearly not in use?

I’d say f this sign and just play.

Most banks will, as a courtesy, deposit a certain amount immediately while the remainder waits to be cleared. My bank will pre-deposit $500 of any check and then the rest several days later. Or at least they used to. It’s been like 10 years since I had to depsoit a check.

What are your current laundry methods, i.e., what sort of detergents do you use? Do you wash on warm or cold? Do you know the hardness of your water?

Most of the time when it comes to odor sticking on clothing related to exercise it’s strongly related to the fibers of those cloths. The geometry of polyester fibers often used in athletic wear is known to hold on to oils and other body junk.

Generally, there are three factors that go into successfully washing clothing experiencing these problems.

1. Adequate detergents. You want something with good surfactants to capture and lift away soils, and enzymes of the right types that will help break down difficult soils into smaller molecules that the surfactants can better manage.
2. Temperature. Just as cold water will have a hard time washing away butter and oils from your dishes, cold water in your laundry is gonna have a more difficult time to wash away oils in your clothing. It’s a common misconception that warm in your laundry is bad for clothes. In reality, in the US anyway, most warm settings on washing machines are only around 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Hot settings are usually barely reaching the 100 degree mark, so both of these are in line with your own body temperature as you’re wearing the things. If the care tags on your garments say they can handle warm or hot washes, definitely do so. Things that may say cold can probably tolerate warm, too, given the temperature is really not that hot at all.
3. Time. Surfactants and enzymes need time to work. If your wash time is brief, or you’re using a speed wash setting on your washer, you may not be giving enough time to let the chemicals do their work.

In regards to detergents, in the US, probably the best thing you can get is powdered Tide or Gain. These products includes a good surfactant system, a complete enzyme package, and oxygen bleach all in one. You don’t really need anything more than that.

If you’re using liquids, there are more options but also limitations. Again, Tide is probably the best as far as surfactants go but all liquids are going to be missing the other components. Certain enzymes don’t like to live in a solution with water so they are missing from almost all formulations. Oxygen bleach is activated by water so by definition it can’t be in a liquid product. In these cases you can use a booster product. OxiClean is a common one for just the oxygen bleach but it lacks enzymes. There’s another product called Biz that you can find at Walmart and Meijer stores for very cheap. It’s like seven bucks and has all of the oxygen bleach and enzymes you need.

TL;DR: wash in warm water for a longer time, and add Biz booster powder to your liquid detergent.

You’re either one of the 10,000 or have been living under a rock. CN has been the largest owner for the better part of 15 years.

Good graphic. 7 or 8 for me. In the teens for banana nut bread.