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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 20th, 2023

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  • I’ve done the ethernet thing in two houses now. The first one was a single floor model, so it was relatively easy to run the wires through the attic to the rooms I wanted.

    Our current house is two stories, and I wanted it in my office on the second floor and at a closet along the way for an access point. That was a bit harder!

    I might need to run it to my wife’s office at some point. That one might be harder based on where she’ll need it, compared to the stairs.



  • Finally got my new dryer vent installed!

    Back story: The old vent was broken and letting air into the house. We bought a new vent several years ago, and painted it to better match the siding, and then it sat in the garage. That is, until last week, when we had a nice day, and I had time and inspiration to finally do it. It took like 20 minutes to install. Not sure why I kept putting it off.

    The laundry room definitely doesn’t feel as cold as it used to! Success!


  • Those are the frustrating issues.

    When we first moved to this house (different than the one I mentioned elsewhere in the comments), I had a breaker that would seemingly randomly trip, knocking out power for some lights in the basement and a pond in the back yard. A year or two later we removed the drop ceiling in the basement and discovered a wire that was not properly secured into a metal box…it had moved enough over time that it had worn through the insulation and the hot wire was occasionally touching the metal box, causing the trip. Sigh. Hopefully it’s not a situation like that!



  • I always encourage people to do an audit of what is on every breaker when they get a new home (and make notes). It takes a little while, but when something like this happens, you know exactly where to look. It’s harder to diagnose if you don’t know what breaker the fixture is on.

    Agree on the GFCI advice. I had that happen - the GFCI outside tripped and took out half of the lights in my kitchen. Whoever wired them put them electrically downstream of the GFCI. Took me days to figure out what was going on, because it didn’t occur to me that the outside GFCI would be protecting my kitchen lights. And I wasn’t trying to use the outside outlet for anything, so I didn’t notice it was out.







  • For the shed wiring job…

    First, switch wiring. Normally when you wire a light switch, you have your 14-2 (or 12-2, or whatever, I’ll use 14-2 but the gauge isn’t really relevant) coming into the box, then another 14-2 wire leaving the box, and the two black (hot) wires are connected to the switch. A sequential setup, if you will: Power, switch, light. A simple diagram.

    However, in certain situations, it’s more convenient to run only one 14-2 to the box. For example, you might do this if you have a supply of constant power at the light fixture, but no source of constant power near the light switch. So, you bring the supply 14-2 into the box, and then use a single 14-2 to run to the switch. The black wire is connected to the supply at the light and one terminal of the switch, and then you connect white to the other terminal of the switch, and back to the light in the first box. You are supposed to mark the white on both ends to indicate it is being used as hot rather than neutral. Here’s a diagram of the setup.

    I think of it as a giant T - supply power comes in the top left, light is on the top right, and the vertical line is the wire to the switch that carries supply hot and switched hot on the “wrong” wire. It’s useful when there’s no power source near the switch, but there is power at the light fixture it controls.

    Note that in the box at the light, you’d have three 14-2 wires coming in (6 conductors plus 3 grounds) - supply, power for the light, and the run for the switch.

    Okay. It’s like the previous owner of our house learned this trick…and wanted to use it everywhere.

    So, there’s a box in the shed that has:

    • A constant supply coming in.
    • A constant supply going out to outlets in the shed. (No GFCI, but we’ll ignore that issue for this discussion.)
    • TWO of these fucking T setups. One controls a light in the next shed, and one controls a light in the shed this box is in. Each one of these generates TWO sets of wires (supply is already accounted for in the first bullet).

    So, I have 6 sets of wires coming into this box (hot, neutrals, and grounds). Oh and on at least one of them, he switched the neutrals, not the hots, so there are white wires serving as hot (unmarked, naturally) and who knows what else is going on. At the very least it’s a violation of the code for the amount of conductors in that size of box.

    The worst part, though: It wasn’t necessary.

    • Both light switches are near outlets that have constant power that could easily supply the switches.
    • The light in the second shed could run directly to the switch that controls it, and that would have saved wire and complexity, and make diagnosing an issue much easier. There’s no reason to run that complex circuit.
    • The lights in the first shed, where the box is, are somewhat near the box, but not so close that the complexity of this setup is worth it.
    • Even if he did want to supply the switches directly from that box for some reason, he could still cut it down to FOUR sets of wires in the box, with no unusual usage of wires and a much more understandable setup.

    It’s insane. I’m going to redo it soon, and I don’t think I’ll need to buy ANY supplies to do that. In fact I bet I’ll have extra wire when I’m done (I may need smaller wire nuts, which I have already).